Coyote Troubleshooting
Connected but feeling nothing? Run through these steps.
Close Other Apps & Tabs
Bluetooth Low Energy only allows one active connection at a time. If your Coyote is connected to the DG-Lab app, xToys, e l e c t r o n, or any other browser tab — it can't connect to the arcade game too. Close everything else first.
Power Cycle Your Coyote
Turn your Coyote completely off (hold the power button until the light goes out). Wait 5 seconds. Turn it back on. This clears any stale BLE connections.
Use Google Chrome
Web Bluetooth only works in Google Chrome on desktop (Windows, Mac, Linux, or ChromeOS). It does not work in Safari, Firefox, Edge, or standard mobile browsers.
iOS users: Chrome on iPhone/iPad does not support Web Bluetooth. Use Bluefy instead — it's a free browser specifically built for BLE on iOS.
Android users: Chrome on Android supports Web Bluetooth natively.
Connect Your Device
Click ⚡ Connect Coyote in the game. Chrome will open a Bluetooth pairing dialog. Select your device:
- • Coyote V2 — appears as
D-LAB XXXX - • Coyote V3 — appears as
47L XXXXor47R XXXX
Wait for the status to show Connected (V2) or Connected (V3).
Check the DG-Lab App Soft Limit
The Coyote V3 has a device-level maximum set by the official DG-Lab app and stored on the device itself. Our Max % slider sits underneath that ceiling — so if you set a low limit in the DG-Lab app once, our 100% is still capped by it.
If you're connected with our Max % at 100% and still feel nothing, the likely cause is this hardware limit. Fix it like this:
- Open the DG-Lab app on your phone and pair with your Coyote.
- Raise the device's maximum output limit to a comfortable level.
- Disconnect and fully close the DG-Lab app (don't just background it — kill it).
- Power-cycle the Coyote, then reconnect from our site.
Quick sanity check: run one of the DG-Lab app's built-in patterns at a known-working level. If that also feels nothing, it's electrode/contact, not our software (check gel pads, cable seating, and that both A and B channels have electrodes attached).
Turn Up Max % On Our Page
The Max % slider starts at 0% for safety. You will feel absolutely nothing until you slide it up. Start around 20–30% and increase from there. The device also has a 5-second soft ramp when you first connect, so give it a moment.
Start Playing
The Coyote signal is driven by the game — it only sends output when the game is actively generating a signal (e.g. during gameplay, not on the menu screen). Start a round and you should feel it. You do not need to click "Start Signal" — that button is for the separate audio output. Coyote works independently.
Common Question
Switching Your Coyote From Phone to PC
The Coyote has no pairing mode, and there's nothing to “forget.” It uses Bluetooth Low Energy, which is connection-based rather than pairing-based like headphones — it never bonds to a device or remembers one. It just talks to whatever grabs it first, and only one thing at a time.
So to move it from your phone to your PC (or between any two devices):
- Free it from the current device. Disconnect in the app that's holding it (close the DG-Lab app fully — don't just background it), or simply power-cycle the Coyote: hold the power button until the light goes out, wait 5 seconds, turn it back on.
- Connect from the new device. Open the game in Chrome, click ⚡ Connect Coyote, and pick it from the Bluetooth list.
First thing to grab it wins. No PIN, no pairing-mode button, no “forget device” step needed.
Seeing a “bound” badge in the DG-Lab app? That just means the app is remembering your Coyote — you don’t need to unbind it. Because it’s bound, though, the app will keep trying to auto-reconnect and grab the device, so make sure it’s fully closed (not just backgrounded) before you connect somewhere else.
From the Community
Coyote Dropping Out Mid-Session?
Different problem to the steps above. If your Coyote connects fine and then drops partway through a session, the usual cause is your phone screen going to sleep. The phone suspends the DG-Lab app in the background and the Bluetooth link dies with it. Keep the screen awake and it stops happening.
Turn your brightness right down while you do this. The screen is going to be on for a long time, which costs battery and risks burn-in on OLED panels.
iPhone
Keep the screen on: Settings › Display & Brightness › Auto-Lock › Never (or as long as you want). As long as the screen is on, and ideally with the app actually in front, it holds the connection.
Stop knocking settings by accident: Settings › Accessibility › Guided Access, and switch it on. Open the Coyote app, set everything how you want it, then triple-click the Home button. On a Face ID iPhone there is no Home button, so triple-click the side button instead. A menu opens where you can draw a circle over all or part of the app to kill touch input there. Triple-click again to get it back.
You can put a passcode on Guided Access too, which is handy if you want to let someone watch the screen without letting them touch anything.
Android
Keep the screen on: Android's own screen timeout usually caps out around 5 or 10 minutes, which is not enough. KeepOn will hold it on indefinitely, and there are plenty of other keep-awake apps if you'd rather use something else.
Stop knocking settings by accident: Settings › Accessibility › Interaction and dexterity › Interaction control › Interaction control shortcut. Open the Coyote app, set it up, then press power and volume up together. Same as the iPhone one: block the whole screen or just part of it. Press power and volume up again to re-enable touch.
Android menu wording varies by manufacturer. That path is Samsung's One UI; on other phones look under Accessibility for something along the lines of "interaction control" or "touch lock".
Before you lock the screen out: make sure you can still reach the power button on the Coyote itself. With touch input disabled the app is no longer your way out, so the unit's own power button becomes your stop. Keep it somewhere you can grab it.